Monday 12 February 2018

Three days in Venice

Venice - the city of waterways, masks and canal bridges has always intrigued me. It sounded like a place from another time, even another world... and it definitely feels that way when you're there.

Since it was high on my travel list and my bucket list for 2018, I was glad when I got the chance to spend three days there at the end of January. Here are my top ten highlights.

1. St Mark's Square and Basilica (Piazzo San Marco)
An obvious choice for any first time visit to Venice, but the basilica of St Mark's really does take your breath away. Those horses! When we first arrived late on the Monday night the square was shrouded in mist which gave it such an eerie, mystical quality.





2. Glass blowing demonstration in Murano
Our three islands boat trip was a definite highlight, and our first stop was the island of Murano. Famous for its glass making (the industry moved here from Venice when a law was introduced permitting open fires. As a result, Murano is now sometimes referred to as 'fire island'.)

We were lucky enough to visit a glass making factory and museum to see a live demonstration, where 'Maestro' whipped up a beautiful vase tinged with red (the most expensive colour in Murano glass) and a prancing horse. Both seemed utterly perfect, and were created freehand using pliers in a matter of minutes. It was amazing to watch.



Afterwards you get the chance to visit the factory shop, where you can take some Murano glass home. Beware - the prices are far higher here than the other shops right next door and throughout the island. We learned the hard way! Still. there are some beautiful pieces on offer. Since we had limited luggage space we chose some jewellery. I picked a clear, sparkling half moon pendant to remind me of my trip.

3. The rainbow island of Burano
Our second stop on the boat tour was Burano. It might have been the most beautiful little town I've ever seen. The houses, shops and trattorias were all painted in the brightest blues, pinks, greens and oranges - colours reflecting into the water of the canals which snaked through the streets.





We wandered through the town and took a lot of photos (it is the most 'instragrammable' place) and enjoyed the peace and quiet. January is a good time to go - I can imagine it would heaving with tourists in the summer months. Perhaps the top highlight of my entire trip, Burano is well worth a visit even for a short stay in Venice.

4. Harry's Bar (and not Harry's Bar)
We'd heard from friends that Harry's Bar by St Mark's Bay waterfront was an institution worth visiting. Opened in 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani, famed birthplace of the Bellini, the bar was a favourite for the rich and famous. Once frequented by Ernest Hemingway, Truman Capote and Orson Welles, and more recently the likes of Woody Allen and Nicole Kidman.

This was enough to get us in the door (after a bottle of wine with dinner to convince us it was a great idea). It's definitely a luxurious experience. Although the interior of the bar itself is fairly underwhelming, the service by tuxedo-clad waiters who bring you delicious nibbles on platters to accompany your drinks is quite something. Said drinks were very expensive - 18 euros for a brandy was heart-attack material for a pair of Glasgow girls. After making friends with an American English couple at the neighbouring table, we stumbled across a lively little bar a hop, skip and canal bridge over which was doing prosecco by the glass for two euros. A much better arrangement!

5. Aperitivo by the Rialto
Admittedly a very touristy experience, I thoroughly enjoyed our 4pm aperol spritzes (at discounted rates) by the canal, right next the Rialto bridge. Nothing quite beats watching the hustle and bustle around the famous Venitian landmark as we sipped our drinks, nibbled on our aperitivo snacks and then swiftly ordered another round! The ideal way to unwind after a day of sightseeing, before heading out for dinner later in the evening.



6. Dinner at Vino Vino
Following a recommendation from our hotel receptionist (who also informed us we wouldn't find good pizza in Venice - turns out this is because there aren't any pizza ovens in the city. See previous law regarding open fires) we headed to Vino Vino, a firm favourite with tourists and resident Venetians alike.



I had pasta carbonara (authentically Italian, cooked only with pancetta, parmigiana and egg) and my mum the lasagna. Both were exquisite - washed down with a bottle of regional red wine which accompanied our meal perfectly.

7. Canal side lunch
Continuing with the food theme - our lunch the next day was equally good. We walked for an hour or so to find the perfect place (I was determined to eat at a canal side location) and finally stumbled across a little trattoria with tables by the window.


We dined on bruschetta while we watched the endless gondolas lazily drifting past, and enjoyed our last glass of wine to celebrate the end of our holiday. Very good, and very inexpensive too (if you don't mind searching for a while!)

8. Lorenzo Quinn's hands sculpture
On our way to see the Ca' d'Oro (an impressive structure on the grand canal which now houses a museum) we stumbled across some giant hands rising out of the water.



Support by Lorenzo Quinn is a monumental installation at the Ca'Sagredo Hotel (which is, incidentally, also worth a visit - we stopped here for a very fancy coffee, unrivaled views of the Grand Canal, and the sculpture in all its glory). The sculpture is meant to be a warning of the threat to cities like Venice due to rising sea levels, It serves as a reminder of our role as humans to help make a positive impact on history and our environment.


9. The Museum of Music (Museo della Musica)
One of the best things about Venice is the way you can stumble across some real gems without even trying. On our last day we found this great little museum (which was also free - a rarity in Venice) and home to an expansive collection of old and beautiful musical instruments.



10. Shopping in Venice
Last on my list may seem like an obvious one - but I had to include shopping. Anyone who's been to Italy before will already be familiar with the juxtaposition of high and low end stores, quality goods and tacky souvenirs creating a harmonious retail experience.




I picked up some real finds - the leather goods are of course, second to none and I couldn't leave Venice without Murano glass souvenirs (and a glittery Venetian mask or two!).

If I had the money, perusing the rows of beautiful designer stores, Italian houses in particular (Dolce and Gabanna was like a palace) would be the dream! Until that day comes (which I'm confident it will) I was satisfied with taking in some of the wonderful window displays as we strolled round the streets.

So, was there anything I didn't manage to do?

I feel like I definitely managed to do and see quite a lot in three days here. However I would definitely return - I'd love to come back during the famous annual carnival, and to see an opera.

Venice was even more enchanting than I expected, and confirmed by love of all things Italian. I can't wait to return to my favourite part of the world again next month.




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